Potential of developing cosmetics and cosmeceutical products from medicinal plant

Zulaikha Paidi, . and Zainal Abidin Mohd. Yusof, . and Ropien Jokiman, . (2002) Potential of developing cosmetics and cosmeceutical products from medicinal plant. [Proceedings Paper]

The World Health Organization WHO estimates that 80 of the world population or four billion people are now turning back to herbs and botanicals for some aspects of primary health care that was once used for general health maintenance and treatment by their ancestors. Many pharmaceutical companies are also re-examining their specimens in the search for a better drug. There are approximately 380 000 species of plants on earth. Although almost all the plant species have the potential to offer some medicinal benefits only 10 have been studied for this purpose. Malaysia is identified as one of the 12 mega-biodiversity countries in the world and with most of our rainforests unexplored. In addition our multiracial society has a unique and active practice of traditional medicine from the three main races of Malays Chinese and Indians; and possibly some blending of these practices that are continuously undergoing evolution. Therefore the potential of developing a strong and lucrative cosmetic nutraceutical and even pharmaceutical industry based on medicinal plants is enormous in Malaysia. However this paper will focus on cosmetic product development as this industry has the lowest business and technological entry barrier. There are significant issues that need to be resolved in order to develop the cosmetic industry. The identification and proof of authenticity of the traditional herbal information are difficult as they are not recorded in any retrievable document. There is always the concern on the safety of the product. On the other hand the cost of a complete safety evaluation to meet the international class regulatory requirement such as that outlined by the Food and Drug Authority FDA is very high and is almost always beyond the reach of our small and medium scale industries. Facilities for standardised method for evaluating the dermatological and toxicological safety of cosmetic products are available in Malaysia but we must actively work to develop better and more discriminating tests. Although safety testing has been well established since the 1950s testing for effectiveness of cosmetics lurks in the background. The main reason is that it is much more difficult to establish testing method to prove effectiveness of a cosmetic product; also proof of effectiveness is not necessary for the registration of cosmetics. Nonetheless one must always bear in mind that the medical claims made for a cosmetic product can cause one to cross the thin line between cosmetic and drug. Finally but of equal importance is the ability to formulate a product that is superior in quality and goes with the market trend. There are rapid changes in the cosmetic product concept along with the introduction of new and more effective active ingredients. Cosmetic products are most effectively developed using a systematic approach where emphasis should be given to product vision product form acti ve ingredients other key ingredients project schedule regulatory requirements and product performance. The key issue is to keep cost and product development time to a minimum and this is normally achieved by clearly defining the product requirements before the development begins. Formulation and modification must be done at the earliest points possible in the process where simple formulation prototypes exist. The government is promoting the growth of this industry. A number of government grants and assistance programmes are available for small and medium scale enterprises and new entrepreneurs who are interested in venturing into this business. The services include grants for product development and promotion of products incubator schemes to ease into this new venture and assistance to achieve the desired product quality and other quality certification schemes.

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Abstract

The World Health Organization WHO estimates that 80 of the world population or four billion people are now turning back to herbs and botanicals for some aspects of primary health care that was once used for general health maintenance and treatment by their ancestors. Many pharmaceutical companies are also re-examining their specimens in the search for a better drug. There are approximately 380 000 species of plants on earth. Although almost all the plant species have the potential to offer some medicinal benefits only 10 have been studied for this purpose. Malaysia is identified as one of the 12 mega-biodiversity countries in the world and with most of our rainforests unexplored. In addition our multiracial society has a unique and active practice of traditional medicine from the three main races of Malays Chinese and Indians; and possibly some blending of these practices that are continuously undergoing evolution. Therefore the potential of developing a strong and lucrative cosmetic nutraceutical and even pharmaceutical industry based on medicinal plants is enormous in Malaysia. However this paper will focus on cosmetic product development as this industry has the lowest business and technological entry barrier. There are significant issues that need to be resolved in order to develop the cosmetic industry. The identification and proof of authenticity of the traditional herbal information are difficult as they are not recorded in any retrievable document. There is always the concern on the safety of the product. On the other hand the cost of a complete safety evaluation to meet the international class regulatory requirement such as that outlined by the Food and Drug Authority FDA is very high and is almost always beyond the reach of our small and medium scale industries. Facilities for standardised method for evaluating the dermatological and toxicological safety of cosmetic products are available in Malaysia but we must actively work to develop better and more discriminating tests. Although safety testing has been well established since the 1950s testing for effectiveness of cosmetics lurks in the background. The main reason is that it is much more difficult to establish testing method to prove effectiveness of a cosmetic product; also proof of effectiveness is not necessary for the registration of cosmetics. Nonetheless one must always bear in mind that the medical claims made for a cosmetic product can cause one to cross the thin line between cosmetic and drug. Finally but of equal importance is the ability to formulate a product that is superior in quality and goes with the market trend. There are rapid changes in the cosmetic product concept along with the introduction of new and more effective active ingredients. Cosmetic products are most effectively developed using a systematic approach where emphasis should be given to product vision product form acti ve ingredients other key ingredients project schedule regulatory requirements and product performance. The key issue is to keep cost and product development time to a minimum and this is normally achieved by clearly defining the product requirements before the development begins. Formulation and modification must be done at the earliest points possible in the process where simple formulation prototypes exist. The government is promoting the growth of this industry. A number of government grants and assistance programmes are available for small and medium scale enterprises and new entrepreneurs who are interested in venturing into this business. The services include grants for product development and promotion of products incubator schemes to ease into this new venture and assistance to achieve the desired product quality and other quality certification schemes.

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Item Type:	Proceedings Paper
Additional Information:	1 table
AGROVOC Term:	DRUG PLANTS
AGROVOC Term:	HERBACEOUS PLANTS
AGROVOC Term:	PHARMACEUTICAL INDUSTRY
AGROVOC Term:	PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
AGROVOC Term:	MALAYSIA
Geographical Term:	MALAYSIA
Depositing User:	Ms. Norfaezah Khomsan
Last Modified:	24 Apr 2025 05:26
URI:	http://webagris.upm.edu.my/id/eprint/15524

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